Showing posts with label École des Beaux-Arts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label École des Beaux-Arts. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Episode 20 | Paris, 1969




"Carlo..." I murmured, and I almost called my father 'mon cher Carlo'. "Can I ask you when did you travel to the Île du Blanchomme?" The truth is, I had not the faintest idea when my father had lived in Paris, nor any other date in his life, apart from the year of his birth. And that because, despite looking older, he was my mother's age. I waited and smiled, as I observed him frowning, concentrated in doing some mental calculations. Simple as they were, they might have been a challenge to him.


"It was the beginning of the 1970s... I graduated from the École in...1973, I'm almost sure about that. Or was it the end of 1972?" Like a little boy, he was counting his fingers. "Then I spent a year, or almost a year... but at least three seasons in that abandoned factory in Paris...  Spring, Summer and Fall... So it must have been by the end of 1973 or the beginning of 1974, during the Winter, when I traveled to the Indian Ocean... Why, Laurent?"

"Nothing special." I lied. "I was just curious, trying to picture you, back then." Because I was doing my own calculations. I had been born in 1975 in Punaouilo, where Carlo had met Catherine, and now I was wondering when... and why... and how... he had crossed from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, and what had happened to Armand, who hadn't gone with him. Or had he? Could Carlo have had both Armand and my mother as lovers, and at the same time? I started wondering how distant were Punaouilo and the Île du Blanchomme.

"Do you want me to continue with the story, son? Or are you bored?"

"Bored? Mon Dieu, no!" I was intrigued, or more than that, I was thrilled. And invested in what I sensed was my father's upcoming confession of a gay love affair in his youth. "Please, Carlo, please!" 







"After having slept only a few hours, I still woke up much later than the other days. Armand was sound asleep, and I let him sleep." Carlo continued.

It had been a long night, full of acute revelations and intense emotions.  A lot for both of us to take in, but for my friend, who had been living in a state of tension and expectation for so long, it must have been exhausting.







The sun was already high up, and it was too hot to sit to meditate under the shade of a palm tree.

Instead, I decided to go for a walking meditation around the island.

But I could not concentrate on my breath, nor my steps.

My mind was running wild, and for once I decided to let it run free, and follow its mad jumps and bumps, out through the malleability of time and into space immensity.





It came as an insight to me that Armand and I had never been too personal in our conversations. Maybe when we spoke about our respective families and childhoods, our upbringing, our share each of solitude as only children. But that was all, and it wasn't often. Hadn't the previous night, as we immersed ourselves in the stimulating smells and gentle sounds of a tropical, secluded island where we were the only human beings, been the perfect cradle of an unforgettable first time -- when we had really and deeply opened our hearts to one another?

We had been constantly together -- or seeking one another's company in Paris --, even if we studied different disciplines at the École des Beaux-Arts. Architecture for him, and Fine Arts for me. That had actually helped our friendship, since we had even more knowledge and fresh information to exchange. And all the time, we had talked to one another, a lot, interminably during the days and often late into the nights, until we'd fall asleep, exhausted and satisfied.







We arrived in Paris in 1969. That's an easy enough date to remember, because everybody kept saying we were one year late. I was constantly being informed that I had lost one of the grandest moments in the history of the city, that had affected the whole country, maybe the whole western world. Everything had changed, everything was new. But whatever the changes May 1968 had brought, I could not have guessed -- to me, a peasant coming from the isolated high mountains, it was all indeed new. Can you imagine the day I arrived in Paris, Laurent? When I stepped from the train onto the platform, it was as if my senses had blown up -- and for months I felt they were daily being heightened. Of course I had noticed how the scenery had changed, from the little village where I boarded the first local train with other peasants and chickens, to become increasingly more dense, and populated, villages turning into cities, and for the first time my eyes met the fascinating ugliness of the industries and the frightening clutch of the suburbs. But nothing had prepared me to Paris -- its noises, smells, the long avenues I had to walk all on my own looking for the Auberge de la Jeunesse, as the cars and scooters went by in an unbelievable speed, as I went by the array of shops and fancy dressed people in a mesmerizing, affluent stream of diversity. The other students could mock me, and say whatever they wanted -- everything was new to me, including the language, the food, the school, bearing my ways in the academic world and venturing into my own artistic path. I wasn't more overwhelmed because I was so humble and poor, and could not really mix with the Parisian crowds, that I watched from a prudent distance.

To Armand, a prince brought up not far from the City of Light, that he had been often visiting, nothing was really new in Paris. He had watched the news about the student's revolution on TV, at his home in the Chateâu de Montbelle, and after the initial shock and wave of fear, a certain natural and defiant or artificial, defensive blasé attitude he seemed to cultivate, had taken over. Contrary to me, he seemed to glide untouched and unaffected through the admirable new world people praised around us.  

Or so I believed.





We first met in a museum, starting a conversation over two paintings in a corner. They showed the Russian writer Dmitriy Furmanov in an aristocratic pose, and on the other was an anonymous young man sketching -- we couldn't have been each better represented in those depictions. I was visiting the museum for the first time, while Armand was there again just for his best loved paintings. From that specific pair, he knew plenty of details and was eager to share them with me. From the start, he was my first master in Paris.






At some point during our conversation, I recall him mentioning he had already seen me at the École. Naively, unaware of the wealthy person I had before me, I asked him if he knew someone who wanted to share a room -- because I'd have to leave the Auberge de la Jeunesse soon --, implying that maybe he needed a room himself. And after a lovely day well spent together at the museum and the nearby park, having both realized how our presences harmonized and we easily congregated, having shared impressions and opinions in an unstoppable torrent that left us stimulated and pacified at the same time, came Armand's invitation to visit the apartment his father had rented for him, to see whether I would like to share it with him.






For me, his small apartment in the bustling 6e arrondessiment, that he had described as being quite modest -- since he held the Château de Montbelle as comparison -- was instead luxurious, even grand, if I were to have the Auberge and even our stone house in the Apennines in perspective. And for the next five years, realizing I was in Paris at my own expense, Armand did not allow me to pay more than the amount I had payed for a bed at the Auberge, since I had insisted in paying him something at least. 

At the beginning of my stay in Paris, your great-grandfather Tarso was too disappointed and angry at me for having abandoned him in the Apennines, and would not send me any money. Not that I ever asked him for any aid, ever. I knew he would never agree with and approve of my decision to leave our ancestral lands to study and practice Painting in Paris. But later he repented, and did start sending me whatever little money he spared. 

Though I had to work hard to make money in Paris, painting walls here and there, it was a derisive amount I handed Armand every month. But he always found a way of returning the money, buying art supplies, books or even clothes for me.






Armand and I came from completely different backgrounds. And instead of separating, those differences fascinated and reunited us. Armand thought it was magical and a very special form of wisdom that I could guess the weather from looking at the sky and the clouds, taking in consideration the sun and moon lights, as soon I started understanding what the climate in Paris was like. And point to him that a rose was not an azalea, or that strawberries and pumpkins did not grow on trees. He was astonished with all the information I poured on him as we walked around the Jardin des Tuileries, just across the Seine river from our school. I never judged him silly for mistaking a raspberry for a cherry, because that would have made me silly, myself. 

And if I had never been to a museum nor a theater before I had joined the École, Armand had already visited them all in most European countries. Those previous visits with his parents, and an impressive quantity of books he had read, turned him into the most accomplished guide to the Parisian cultural life I could have wished for. And I never judged him arrogant, nor ever thought he was showing off his knowledge, since it felt like just another form of his generosity pouring over me. 








To me, it was a budding period! Armand delighted in introducing me to so many wonderful places and things. We would stroll through the city for many hours, while he pointed all sites of interest, and told their history. From the alleys mentioned by Hugo in Les Miresables to all the sceneries from Balzac's novels, Armand made Paris an even more fascinating, lively city for me. Thanks to him, I could recognize the spots depicted in several paintings, too, and the Arts dominated my daily life in an interplay between past memories, or depictions, and present impressions.

Whenever he had two tickets or the entrance was free, we would go to museums, theaters and the movies together, preferably at the Cinémathèque Française. Chabrol and Costa-Gravas, Louis Malle and François Truffaut, Godard and Resnais, but also Visconti and Bergman and Tarkovsky -- I discovered them all under Armand's enthusiastic guidance. And from his frequent dates with the well-off girls, he would always bring me the exquisite booklets of the best operas and plays in town, that I could not go to myself. What else could a peasant like me have wished for? My life was already richer than I had ever pictured.






For many days we would debate about a controversial play or movie we had watched. Since my French was just rudimentary in the beginning, Armand also shared his books with me, and was very patient and dedicated in teaching me his language. I had never read French poetry before he gave me Baudelaire's 'Les Fleurs du Mal', followed by Rimbaud's 'Le Bateau ivre'. I flipped, as with my friend's aid I made my way through French Literature. In the five years we were roommates, he erected a wonderful library in our apartment, that I profited so much from. We used to call it 'The Church', our church. "Let's go to church?", "Let's meet at the church after class?" It sounded completely démodé, and listening to that our colleagues from the École regarded us as two antiquated religious fanatics, while we rejoiced with our private joke.






It's funny to recall how much time we spent just talking, debating, discussing. Many times we would miss a meal or even class because we engaged in a conversation and forgot about everything -- and everyone -- else.

We rarely discussed politics. The Cold War and the Vietnam War were going on, but we lived in a private, rather harmonious world we had built at our apartment, and that we took with us everywhere that we would go, in our conversations and the immense pleasure we had in each other's company. 

But religion was an almost daily topic. Actually, it was more on spirituality, since none of us was religious, despite our anecdote about 'The Church'. We both agreed that religion actually parted us from experiencing the sacredness of all things. We debated about God -- the concept, the idea, its existence or non existence -- and on faith. It strengthened our bonds, since not many students our age had interest on those topics in those days.

The meaning of life? Were we born with a mission or a purpose in life? Or was the purpose of life simply giving life a purpose? 

Armand was highly cultivated and would bring quotes from Plato, Kierkegaard, Teilhard de Chardin, and other names I'd hear for the first time in our conversations. I'd talk about the crops and the seasons, about magnificent lightning storms and the fierce winds in the mountains, about observing a baby deer daily evolving, and all the corresponding insights I had gained through those experiences.






























Though many times we agreed on books and movies, more than not, to me it actually didn't matter whether we concurred on a subject or notI didn't have to like Heidegger nor the Bauhaus school; to me it was important how these fresh things Armand kept bringing up would help me to avert my peasant past and build a brand new future. Like I had learned to comply and silence when he raised his hand to interrupt me, before I let out some foolishness, I easily gave in to his opinions, and let him conduct me in the world of high culture. Just like he would let me guide him through the gardens and along the alleys of the Parisian parks naming plants and animals for him, though often in Italian, directing his awareness towards the birds singing and the rustling of the leaves, the perfume of the flowers or the scent of rain coming with the wind. On the other hand, he introduced me to Kandinsky and Morandi, among other wonderful painters -- his advice and trained glance would influence my own painting --, while I made him notice the intricately beautiful patterns of moss and the variety of shapes in the clouds.

Armand too, with my company and rather erratic guidance, had started diverting from his past. Showing him how a simple pebble could be as unique and beautiful as the marble that adorned the palaces in Paris -- as well as his own Château de Montbelle --, was rather revolutionary in terms of his cultivated tastes and values. Having an eye to tell the difference between Carrara and Calacatta marbles, it was literally groundbreaking that I would point at the beauty ordinarily existing underneath his feet. 




But who could have guessed the ashrams in faraway India were coming into his life? And that I was the one to be responsible for that addition, and the upcoming shift in Armand's perspectives? I am pretty sure I had never heard about any of those Indian philosophies before I stumbled upon Heinrich Zimmer's book, the one that had made a long, unauthorized journey from a Parisian café to rest in Herr Weismann's libray on the Île du Blanchomme.




next episode








Saturday, November 1, 2014

Episode 04 | The abandoned factory









nudity








"At your age--"  Carlo had hesitated, and silenced. He was remarkable when it came to being inexact with time, numbers, dates. He probably doesn't know my age, I thought. Does he even know we haven't seen one another for twenty years -- plus three months? My father wouldn't have been counting, like me, year after year remembering he had left on a June morning -- and I was instantly dragged back to my teenager years in rural France. But just before I succumbed to my memories, I again surfaced, blinking as I heard him amending,  "No. Much younger. I was a penniless painter, then." 

"And homeless too," He continued, leaning against the back of his chair, making himself comfortable, and I relaxed too, understanding I was being taken on a ride to his past, "since I had to leave the room I had been sharing in an apartment in the 6e arrondissement, after I graduated from the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. My ex-roommate, who had left on a one year trip around the globe, being wealthy, and utmost generous, paid my rent for another couple of months -- 'to give you time to figure out what you want to do', he had suggested. He actually wanted to have the room paid for me for another year, but I had decided it was time to conquer Paris on my own." Smiling, Carlo retreated into his Parisian memories.


*****


"I did not have to figure it out. I knew what I wanted to do.

"I wanted to paint. But I guess my ex-roommate referred to getting a job, or going back to the Apennines, where my grandfather still waited for my return, to help him with the crops.

"I decided to spend all my money on a new easel, plenty of canvases and painting supplies. And so, I could not afford paying the rent after that courteous period ended.

"But sleeping rough did not concern me. What I wanted most was to have a small studio, an atelier for myself.












"I found shelter in an abandoned factory, located in a decaying industrial district, on the outskirts of Paris. I imagine it used to be a tires manufacture, but I never even learned its name. It was a vast room with high walls, left totally empty after the machinery, the furniture, and even the doors inside the building had all been removed -- or stolen. I occupied the corner located farthest from the street, just a few rooms which might have been the administrative quarters, from which the partitions had vanished, too. The rest of the building I left for the noisy population of bats and rats, and the cats that chase them. In the beginning, I would startle at the screeches of their bloody battles of survival, to later grow thankful that they could resolve it among themselves, and not come after me.

"I wasn't exactly hungered when I moved in, but from then on my diet consisted mostly of the leftovers from a neighboring food packing factory -- lots of canned soup. And stale bread, too."











"Are you telling me... you were that poor? That you didn't have enough food, Carlo?" I was in shock. There had never been one single word about this period of my father's life. Had Catherine known about any of this, I wondered. Knowing her, she could have hidden it because she might have been ashamed of her partner's poorness. 


Carlo had studied in Paris, and as far as I knew, he had never returned to the city since then. I did some quick calculations -- he must have been talking about the beginning of the seventies, prior to meeting Catherine in Punaouilo. He was in his early twenties then, and not 'my age'. Had he been in the town during the revolution of May 1968? I wanted to ask, but had no chance, for Carlo was no longer before me, but dwelling in his own past.





"I would say I had just enough food to survive, Laurent... I was eating only once a day, or every other day, depending on what I found to eat..."

But don't get me wrong! I couldn't be any happier!

I was free!

I had no teacher, no boss, no one to follow nor obey! No marching orders! 

And I was allowed to paint all day and night long, day after day...

I had found a narrow, squeaking iron bed someone had dumped because it was rusty. It sat just beside the easel, and I would alternate periods of resting, usually during the day, with longer periods of painting. The glasses on most windows in the factory were broken, and there was always a lovely breeze roaming the room.






There was even running water -- though it would frequently smell to rust, sewage and dead rats -- and if the days had been warm and sunny, in the evenings the water in the pipes would not be so cold and I could shower. When it was too cold, I could still use it to wash my clothes, as few as they were, and the bed sheets I had inherited from my roommate.






I loved the night time for painting, because the district was calmer then. 
The whole world seemed at peace, with people silenced and lost to their sleep and dreams, keeping their agonies and wrongdoings all to themselves, in another realm. The only sound I heard in the evenings, apart from the animals, were distinctive thumps against the other side of the wall, coming from the vaster room I had left unoccupied, where the production lines used to be. Scariest of all, it was a muffled sound that sometimes came from the floor level, but other times right from the top of the wall, close to the beamed ceiling. It sounded like someone was coming in the evenings to dump corpses at the abandoned factory. Or as if a person had jumped from the beams to hang up himself, his lifeless body left twisting on the rope's end bumping against the wall. But there were evenings when the sound seemed to originate from a dozen corpses, like in a mass murder, or from a collective suicide, with a dozen hanged, one after the other. Ghosts? One night, I finally decided to venture into the darkness, to observe bundles of dried up brambles and garbage suddenly spring to life, carried by the wind, storming along the empty room and often gaining so much speed as to become fluorescent under the moonlight and try a brief flight, tortuous ascending curves that ended in dry thumps against the walls. Sometimes against the ceiling, even, to then descend and land heavily, losing bits and pieces and yet, finding the motion to start rolling around again. Not as scary as in my imagination, it was nevertheless a mesmerizing, phantasmagorical spectacle to watch in the unlit, deserted rooms.

There was very little light in the factory, too. Just a couple of lamps still worked in my quarters. And the effect on my art of such dark surroundings was that my paintings gained in contrast, in vibrancy and intensity of lines and textures.

They were never gloomier. 

I was depicting cracked walls, burnt tires, broken windows, all the beautiful decadence of weathering and damage I found around me.

And in retrospect, I was never again as satisfied with my paintings.

I guess you could very appropriately call them 'still life'. My own life was still like a calm lake, and I was painting the images I saw reflected on its surface.






I never left the factory unless to gather food, the first couple of months, and never met another person.

What a privilege to be completely silent! For weeks in a row. Have you ever experienced that, Laurent?

No small talk, no deep conversations, nothing! The sound of my breath and my heartbeat, these only were keeping me company.

My whole world consisted of the patio next to the factory. I had neatly rearranged the piles of old tires left behind to dry and disintegrate, so that it somehow resembled a forest of calcined trunks. That's where I spent a few hours outdoors every day, reading, sunbathing, doing push-ups.

And meditating.

My ex-roommate from the École had visited India on one of his holidays and brought with him some techniques I was so lucky to learn.

At the end of each sitting session, I would daily pray for the happiness of all beings, and I felt utterly at peace, Laurent.






"I had no idea, Carlo!" I exclaimed. But only after my father's silence had lasted long enough, indicating that he did not want to talk any further. "I've never heard none of this before, nor saw it published anywhere. How come?" It would only fill the gaps in his catalogs' biographies, that I confess I had been reading along the years to keep up with my father's story. "It would add up so much to your reputation of being a reclusive master!" I had decided to tease him a bit, to bring him out of his mutism. "I think you know you are often compared to Balthus."

"Balthus once declared painting is a form of prayer." Carlo retorted. "I wish I had said that first. Or maybe I have, but no one heard it... since I had been talking only to myself, ha-ha! But I guess that's the only thing we have in common! As for being a master, that only means I'm getting old, and soon I'll have to teach the young. If there are any volunteers. And that my artistic identity is frozen, because art critics have come to respect or fear me! I feel like a mummy, when they call me 'master'!"






"I was thinking more on your seclusion than on your 'mastery', Carlo." I teased him further. "I'm sorry if I mentioned Balthus. But like him, you now have a painting that was bought for over a million dollars during your life time, still. And you are often compared to Morandi, too. How about that?"

"That's the greatest compliment ever made to me. Being compared to Morandi, ha! Might be because we are both Italian? Apart from that, I hate comparisons! And I'm happy to hear you've taken interest in my career, Laurent." Carlo seemed touched. "As for the million dollar painting, that has happened just once yet, and believe me, I didn't get all that money."

"I hate comparisons too, Carlo. I know how that feels. But in my case it's not Balthus nor Morandi." I sighed. "I'm often being compared to you! I'm always the son of the great painter. It sucks! And the day I publish my first book, I know I'll be compared to Catherine, and turned into the son of the best-selling author." After I finished my ranting, that Carlo had listened with raised eyebrows, I felt ashamed and changed the subject. "But let's return to your story, Carlo... I'm fascinated!"






"If it feels so bad, you're still young enough to try to become a chef, or a surgeon. How about those, Laurent?" Carlo confronted me. "Nothing has been imposed on you, I think. You've always been the handsome prince roaming freely through life. Your remark sounded arrogant and spoiled... and I hope you are not!" There was no anger in his voice, just some concern that I had become a different person from the kid he had been raising until 13 years old. "As for my story... fascinated, are you son? How fascinating do you think a clogged toilet is? Or having to dig through trash for food? I'm pretty sure you've never had those experiences, Laurent..." And we veered into his past.






I did not have food to eat more than once daily, but instead I had to unclog the toilet every time I used it -- again, not so often, because I did not eat much, ha-ha! And nevertheless I was happy, so happy to be free, to be on my own, to be left alone!

You have no idea how my solitude was -- and still is -- so very important to me, Laurent.

I knew I could not live like that for long, but I was just trying to live day by day, and not worry about the rest of my life. 

Nor the rest of the year. 

Not about the next day, even.